Georg's Research

Please note: This is Not a Pattern by Me (George Anne)- This is a pattern written by Anne from the Kingdom of Atlantia, whom I met via Ravelry, and this has been posted here as a courtesy for those who wish to *test* her pattern for these socks. Please send comments to me and I will pass them on to her, or directly to her if you are also on Ravelry and are on the Medieval Textiles or SCA Fiber Artists groups. ALSO: The above chart is for a larger gauge than what appears in the directions below, so the directions are not in sync with the chart, but the chart should still give a good idea of the finished image you will produce.

Eleanora of Toledo Stockings

This is a fairly complicated pattern for a really beautiful stocking. There are simpler renditions available, but this one is the closest one I have been able to work out, and I have been knitting for 40 years. I personally find a chart easier to follow in complicated patterns such as this one. I will include a copy of my working notes, which includes the charts and construction notes.

Use size 00 (or size you need to get a gauge of 12 stitches per inch) and super fingering or lace weight yarn.

The stocking is worked from the top down, including a fold-over cuff that would normally cover garters. For ease of construction, work the cuff, then flip the work inside out and continue stocking. If you want a period heel, you should probably work a shaped common heel, keeping in pattern throughout. The stockings themselves are in a condition which does not allow precise planning for re-creating the heel and sole of the foot. Comfort perhaps would dictate a stocking stitch sole, but I have not found it to be an issue, and I really believe the pattern was worked all the way down, especially after I finished the first one, and saw that everything worked beautifully and made complete sense once it was properly executed. Likewise, the back of the extant stocking is not visible in museum photographs. I tried different kinds of shaping and discovered that the paired decreases found in most other extant stockings worked really well with the Toledo pattern. Panels “melt” into each other as they are reduced and the pattern then continues uninterrupted.

Cast on 144 stitches evenly distributed over your needles. You are going to be working in the round at all points except the heel flap.

Rnd 1: Purl

Rnd 2: Knit

Rnd 3: Purl

Rnd 4: (purl 1, knit 17) across

Rnd 5: Purl 2, (knit 15, purl 3) across, end purl 1.

Rnd 6: Knit 1, purl 2, (knit 13, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2) across, end purl 2.

Rnd 7: Purl 1, knit 1, purl 2, (knit 11, purl 2, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 2) across, end purl 1.

Rnd 8: Purl 2, knit 1, purl 2, (knit 9, purl 2, knit 1, purl 3, knit 1, purl 2) across, end purl 2, knit 1, purl 1.

Rnd 9: Knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2, (knit 7, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2) across, end purl 2, knit 1, purl 2.

Rnd 10: Knit 2, purl 2, knit 1, purl2, (knit 5, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 3, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2) across, end knit 1.

Rnd 11: Knit 3, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2, (knit 3, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 5, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2) across, end knit 2.

Rnd 12: Knit 4, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2, (knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 7, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2) across, end knit 3.

Rnd 13: Knit 5, (purl 2, knit 1, purl 3, knit 1, purl 2, knit 9) across, end knit 4.

Rnd 14: Knit 6, (purl 2, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 2, knit 11) across, end knit 5.

Rnd 15: Knit 7, (purl 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 13) across, end knit 6.

Rnd 16: Knit 8, (purl 3, knit 15) across, end knit 7.

Rnd. 17: Knit 9, (purl 1, knit 17) across, end knit 8.

*******This ends the first pattern section on cuff.

Rnd 18: Purl.

Rnd 19: Knit.

Rnd 20: Purl.

*******This next section requires some attention. If done right, the openwork resembles small four-petal flowers. By the time you are done with this section, you’ll be amazed at what you can accomplish, with a minimum amount of effort and just a little (well, more than a little) concentration. I have discovered that if you double-wrap the second yarn-over, then drop the second wrap before decreasing in the next row, your little open- work flowers will be much lovelier. (This section edited as of 01/21/08)

Rnd 21: (Purl 2, knit 6, purl 2, knit 2) across.

Rnd 22: Knit 1, (purl 2, knit 4) across, end knit 3.

Rnd 23: Knit 2, (purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 6)across, end knit 4.

Before working Rnd 24, slip first stitch of first needle onto last working needle.
Rnd 24: Knit 2, purl 4, knit 3, *(yarn over, slip one purl wise, knit two together, pass slipped stitch over, yarn over). Repeat from * across.

Rnd 25: *Knit 2, purl 4, knit 3, (yarn over, purl three together, yarn over). Repeat from * around. Remember to bring your yarn forward before making your yarn-overs, otherwise the openwork will not be even.

Before working Rnd 26, slip the last stitch of the last working needle onto first needle.
Rnd 26: Knit 2, (purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 6) across, end purl 4.

Rnd 27: Knit 1, purl 2, (knit 4, purl 2) across, end knit 3.

Rnd 28: (Purl 2, knit 6, purl 2, knit 2) across.

Rnd 29: Purl 1,*(Knit 3, yarn over, slip one purl wise, knit two together, pass slipped stitch over, yarn over, knit 2), purl 4. Repeat from * across end purl 3.

Rnd 30:Purl 1, *(Knit 3, yarn over, purl 3 together, yarn over, knit 2),purl 4. Repeat from * around, end purl 3.

Rnd 31: ( Purl 2, knit 6, purl 2, knit 2) across.

Rnd 32: Knit 1, (purl 2, knit 4) across, end knit 3.

Rnd 33: knit 2,purl 2, knit 2, *(Purl 2, knit 6, purl 2, knit 2). Repeat from * across. End knit 4.

Repeat Rnds 24-33.

Repeat Rnds 24-27.

*******

Repeat Rnds 1-19.

Turn work inside out (reverse work). This means that you will be working back over your last row, but proceed as before, working rows normally. You can wrap your yarn around the 1st stitch of the next needle before turning to keep from making a small hole here.

Knit 1 rnd.

*******You will now start the leg part of the stocking. The most difficult part of this stocking has been completed. Once the leg pattern has been established, this part is relatively easy. You will be working three different types of panel--seed (rice) stitch, and horizontal rib, separated by a smaller purl panel with center stitch worked as a garter stitch. Once you’ve done an inch you will know exactly what I am saying. The panels are obvious and the pattern becomes simple to follow.

Patt row 1: *knit 1, (purl 1, knit 1) 5 times; knit 1, (purl 2, knit 1, purl 2), knit 1; purl 11; knit 1, (purl 2, knit 1, purl 2), knit 1; repeat from * across.

Patt row 2: *knit 1, (purl 1, knit 1) 5 times; knit 1, purl 5, knit 1; purl 11; knit 1, purl 5, knit 1; repeat from * across.

Patt row 3: *purl 1, (knit 1, purl 1) 5 times; knit 1, (purl 2, knit 1, purl 2), knit 1; knit 11; knit 1, (purl 2, knit 1, purl 2), knit 1; repeat from * across.

Patt row 4: *purl 1, (knit 1, purl 1) 5 times; knit 1, purl 5, knit 1; knit 11; knit 1 purl 5, knit 1; repeat from * across.

Repeat these 4 rows throughout. Work in pattern as established until piece measures 8 ½ inches from beginning. Make calf shaping by decreasing in pairs on inside edge of large panel in back. Decrease every 4th row until panel is entirely reduced. Mark center stitch of back, either by marker or by keeping this stitch in garter for the rest of the leg. Keep decreasing in pairs every 4th row until the tow large panels on either side of the back panel have been reduced in half, thus forming
one large panel.

Keeping to pattern, work to length desired to heel. Remember the cuff folds over, so measure from the bottom of the cuff. 15 inches is a good modern length. If you want this to be a period reproduction, you should probably use a shaped common heel, keeping in pattern throughout. If your primary purpose is having a working sock, use your favorite heel shaping and keep bottom of stocking in stockinette stitch. You should be able to tell where to place your pattern panels in the period version by centering your large panel on the center back of the heel, and incorporating the extra stitches at the gussets into the large panels on either side of the edges of the instep. When the extra stitches are worked out, the panels should be the perfect size to continue the foot.

The original stocking looks to have been produced using round toe shaping. If you are doing a modern rendition, a wedge toed shaping is also appropriate. At this point, if you want matching garters, cast on 8-10 stitches and, using two needles, work in garter stitch for a length which will allow room to wrap around knee and tie. Happy Knitting!

Toledo Toe and Heel
If you worked the stocking according to the directions, you should have 97 stitches on your needles when you are ready to start the heel. At this point you divide your work into two sections: instep and heel. I found it easiest to work 45 stitches on the heel--this allows you to have a center back stitch down the heel, which serves as a marker for shaping. You can choose to mark this stitch, but make sure to know whether your marker is placed to the right or left of your center stitch. Or you can simply work the center stitch in garter on each row. Or you can choose to simply count to the middle each time you do a decrease row. At any rate, you will work these stitches in pattern until the heel flap measures about 2.5 inches.

Start shaping:
Work to 2 sts before center st of heel, k2tog, k1, SSK, work to end.
Work 1 row even.

Repeat these 2 rows until the large back panel and two small panels on either side of it merge into a single small panel. Now you will use this small panel as your 'center stitch' and continue decreasing, this time on either side of the small panel. Do this until all you have left is the 7 stitches of the center small panel. You have now made the heel cup. This looks amazingly like a banded heel, but borrows elements of the shaped common heel as well.

Right side facing you, pick up 28 stitches along heel flap, work instep stitches in pattern, pick up 28 stitches along other side of heel flap. Arrange the stitches comfortably on your needles and proceed to pattern the foot. Mark the center back stitch (which is now on the bottom of the foot. Work 6 stitches in the welt pattern (panel 3 on chart), small panel, moss stitch on 18 stitches, small panel, work across established pattern on instep stitches; when you reach the picked up stitches for the other side of the heel flap, work 18 stitches in the moss panel, small panel, and the remaining 5 stitches in the welt pattern.

Now you will decrease 1 stitch on the instep side of the large moss stitch panels (forming a gusset) which you created on the sides of the heel flap. Do this every other row until you have reduced the moss stitch panels to 11 stitches each. Work the foot in the established pattern until 2 inches less than the desired length of the foot (probably about 5 inches from where you picked up the stitches on the heel flap).

Work round toe shaping by decreasing 1 stitch at each side of the large panels every 4th row until they are completely reduced. Do the same for the small panels twice. Cut yarn and thread through remaining stitches on needles. Pull snug and finish off, weaving in the end of the cut yarn.

Sounds complicated, but makes a lot of sense when you actually see it done. Enjoy your stockings!